Los Conquistadores De Lo Inutil Lionel Terray Pdf 14

Los Conquistadores De Lo Inutil Lionel Terray Pdf 14





 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Los Conquistadores De Lo Inutil Lionel Terray Pdf 14

Lionel had told the group that it was a technical climb, with difficult ice climbing, and if they slipped they would find themselves in a situation where they had to make a decision: commit suicide, or traverse with the Egeler and de Booy, two of them may died at some point. They decided to commit suicide, which was easy, and the rest of the party arrived safely at high-altitude camp. After a week they find a note saying that de Booy had had a heart attack, and they decided to try to assist him. With terrible weather and with de Booy attacked by altitude sickness, they had to turn back and, as the author relates in his book, the climb was never done by a European team.

He was extremely brave, but many people remember him to be tragic; I don’t believe that there is a sadder person in this world, one who dedicated his life to others, but his childhood was plagued by tragedy, and being left orphan at an early age was a handicap he could not overcome. Terray and I stayed at the top of the Eiger for several years, and I had an enormous respect for him. A good friend and mountain guide in my youth, but it was a different time than now. The time when you could climb in top condition without knowing the people who ran the guides school, and did not need coaching before starting to climb.

I was in Sidney and the first trekking guide I got was Lionel Terray’s brother, Joachim. A bit older and he took my first trekking clients.

Not much happened to Lionel when he was in Ruhpolding, it was only about 4 years after Cuceritorii, that I started to regularly read the Swiss periodicals alpin and Pilatus, due to the interest I felt in the mountaineering that was about to take off.

After my first books published and the historical events I was going to write about, I started to think about how could I get closer to the subject and get to know it better.

I met some journalists in Switzerland, who were members of the famous club le Mont-Blanc Club, that was quite active and that kept me informed about what was happening in the beautiful and mysterious mountains.

One of them, older than me, was a passionate mountaineer, Olivier Richeret, and a student of Lionel Terray, he introduced me to him by writing him a letter that we both answered at the same time, with a return of the original letters and an interview that we both did on a sunny afternoon in the mountains.

As I was not free in summer time, I had to wait for the next summer vacation to have him as a guide for the first time on Mount Maudit. That was when we crossed the cornice on the South side of the mountain. I paid the price, but I learned so much more about Terray than those hours. We met again in Chamonix later, in the studios of the mountain radio, he gave me a good physical description of Lionel, we talked about his personality, we talked about his ski accident in Chiampo in the Dolomites, and his life in Ruhpolding. We talked about his attitude to the book Cuceritorii inutilului and of my concepts about the history of mountaineering. We also talked about the future of mountaineering.

He had not spoken about his personal life, but I could understand that it was difficult to express himself in words, having him and Lionel, an uncle and his nephew, more like friends. Maybe he did not want to take the risk of it. People tend to talk less about what is too personal about them.

I am sure that he didn’t know why I was so interested in him, probably because we both had been mountain guides on the same territory.

A couple of years after that he made my stay in Ruhpolding possible. He gave me a job, and I had to learn a lot of lessons on modern, mountaineering mountaineering. But it was never very practical, when you have a real living to do. I had to do so I wrote in my old journal: “And this is what I learn while staying with the Terrays in Ruhpolding.

First is to speak slowly, using as much as possible the right words that will convey my thoughts without ambiguities, without “diverting expressions” and not to be “drawn up”.

Second: to use few words, not because I am bad or that I do not know what I want to say, but because most people do not understand anything, they think that I am slow or impatient or that they are not intelligent enough to understand me.

Third: not to express myself in terms of “antonyms”, as they say that you are talking too much.

Source: Apropos to Lionel Terray, within a few months of the publication of his book Les conquistadors de l’inutile, the very same book was republished in French in a much larger and more beautiful eddition.
This is the very fine ‘pioneer’, Agustin Guzman, who met Lionel in Peru. He was the best type of mountain guide. Here he is seen on Chacraraju, ca 1960s. He is the first one to make a long series of photos at Cumbuco after Lionel and his party. He has also made many photos at the Chimborazo, the Wanakilla, the Pisagua… http://www.agustin.jimdo.com
Terrays is a tough name. I climbed with a friend who climbed in the military and I asked him what Terray was, he could not recall the name, but figured the surname was a good clue. I bought the book and only then did I learn that the man was actually called Lionel de Terray. I had heard the name used by climbers before, but it had lost something of its luster with the death of this man. For a couple of years I would use the name for any difficult climber of the area. Then I came across a press photo of the 1960 ascent of Eiger and managed to ID the photographer. Over the next few years, I met more and more guides who “knew” “nous” etc. were Terray. My guidebooks became full of him. So finally, I decided it was time to check out. When I saw the bibliographic reference to Cees and Tom, I realized I had a story to share. I am struck by the similarity between my cross-country experience with my friend and Egeler and Terray’s ascent of Huantsan. For some reason, I only associated the unusual climbing caper with Egeler, and had always assumed it was Terray. The only difference is that Egeler and his friend got there first. I think you are on the right track. I would love to see his photo of the 1952 ascent of Chacraraju in picturesque modern times. And I have a little more to share that I would be glad to hear from you.
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